Mostrando entradas con la etiqueta tóxicos. Mostrar todas las entradas
Mostrando entradas con la etiqueta tóxicos. Mostrar todas las entradas

20 sept 2011

The life cycle of a PET plastic bottle


Plastic bottles are used to package a wide variety of things, from juice to soft drinks, and they play a ubiquitous role in the lives of many consumers, along with other plastic products. With a growing awareness of the environmental issues which surround plastics, many people have become interested in the life cycles of plastic products, from manufacturing to eventual disposition in a landfill or recycling facility. Being aware of the process behind the production of plastics can encourage consumers to think more carefully about how they use and dispose of such plastics. Because plastic bottles are a very visible form of plastic use, plastic bottles make an easy target for activism and education.



The life cycle of a plastic bottle starts, obviously, with the creation of the plastic used to make it. The vast majority of plastic bottles are manufactured from petroleum, some of which comes from deposits as much as three billion years old. Some manufacturers use bioplastics made from plant materials to create their plastic bottles, out of concern for the environment.
In the case of a plastic bottle made from petroleum, the oil must be extracted before being shipped to a processing facility and then distilled to separate out the various hydrocarbons it contains. Oil extraction is performed all over the world in a variety of locations, and it has a number of environmental impacts. In areas where oil is drilled from the seafloor, for example, oil spills are common, and regions like the Middle East are famous for their heavily polluting oil fires, caused by intentional or accidental combustion of oil fields. In some nations, oil extraction is also bound up with a number of social issues. Nigeria, for instance, has an oil industry notoriously plagued with problems; oil workers are often poorly paid and exposed to very hazardous conditions, and periodic devastating fires along oil pipelines are not uncommon.

Once oil has been extracted, it is typically moved into container tankers for shipping to refinery facilities. At a refinery, the oil can be submitted to a variety of distillation processes, such as fractional distillation, where the crude oil is heated, causing its various components to separate so that the refinery can make gas, fuel oil, plastics, and a variety of other products. Crude oil can also be “cracked” with chemical catalysts to generate hydrocarbon chains of a desired length; this practice is common, because demand for various petroleum products constantly fluctuates, and cracking ensures that oil is used extremely efficiently and generates the maximum possible profit.
Most plastic bottles are made from polyethylene terephtalate (PET) plastic, and almost all water bottles come from virgin plastic; an estimated 30% of the world's PET goes into plastic bottles. The plastic used in plastic bottles is made by mixing hydrocarbons extracted from crude oil with chemical catalysts, triggering polymerization. Next, manufacturers produce plastic pellets, which are melted down into “preforms,” which look like small test tubes; the preforms, in turn, can be heated, causing them to expand and turn into conventional water bottles. Typically bottling companies order preforms, expanding the water bottles at their own facilities as needed.



Water bottles produced from bioplastics are made from plant materials which are processed to form polymers. Bioplastics are believed to be better for the environment, since they do not require the extraction and handling of crude oil, a non-renewable resource, and companies which manufacture them often try to use the best possible environmental practices. Furthermore, bioplastics decompose rapidly; the life cycle of a plastic bottle made from bioplastic is extremely short. In fact, some bottles made from bioplastics will even start to deform and leak if they are kept on the shelf too long.



However, bioplastics are not without environmental issues. The production of such plastics requires dedicating large areas of farmland to the production of crops for plastics, rather than food, and these crops eat up a great deal of water, fuel, and other resources. Bioplastics must also be manufactured with the assistance of a variety of chemicals, and, like regular plastics, they require shipping to an end destination, consuming more fuel along the way. Because they are designed to be disposable while still being relatively environmentally friendly, some activists fear that they may also distract consumers from more environmentally friendly choices, like reusable glass and metal containers.
Depending on the size of a bottling plant, a company will either order preforms and use them as needed, or it will order plastic bottles which are ready for use. The plastic bottles must be sterilized so that they are safe for beverages, and then they are filled, capped, labeled, packed into cases, and prepared for shipping. 




At this stage in the life cycle of a plastic bottle, the bottle could end up in any number of places, from a relief camp for refugees to the shelf at a high-end supermarket.
One distinct advantage to plastic bottles, in the eyes of manufacturers, is that they are extremely sturdy, making it much easier to ship beverages in plastics than glass, cardboard, metal, and other containers. Plastic bottles are also extremely lightweight, with manufacturers constantly coming up with new ways to use less plastic in their containers to cut down on the cost of production and shipping. Shipping materials in lightweight materials is also good for the environment, as it cuts down on fuel costs.
Once a PET plastic bottle ends up in the hands of an end-consumer, it has three possible fates after its contents have been consumed: it may be reused, recycled, or thrown away.


 PET bottles recycling process

recycling of PET bottles requires large amounts of water and energy

Despite the fact that most plastic bottles are made from PET plastic and this plastic is very easy to recycle, recycling rates for plastic bottles are actually very low, globally. Anywhere between 15-35% of plastic bottles make their way into recycling facilities, depending on the region, with the rest ending up in landfills or as litter. Some countries have attempted to address the low recycling rate with incentives, but because plastic bottles are cheap and easily accessible, many of these programs have not worked.


Many people believe that re-use, followed by recycling, is the best use for a plastic bottle. PET plastic can be reused, although people should avoid using it to contain hot or corrosive materials, and they should take care to wash such bottles out carefully. Plastic bottles can be very hospitable for bacteria, thereby potentially causing a health risk for people who drink from them. After a plastic bottle has been reused as many times as possible, it should ideally be recycled.


In recycling, plastic bottles are shredded into chips which are then sterilized and sold to companies which produce products made from recycled plastic. This stage in the life cycle of a plastic bottle can get quite interesting, as these plastic chips can be used for everything from fleece blankets to artificial lumber. Many products which are made from recycled plastic clearly indicate this, for consumers who would prefer to promote the use of recycled, rather than virgin, plastics.



When a plastic bottle enters a landfill, it can take hundreds of years to decay, and it can have a profound environmental impact. The route to the landfill is often quite long, as plastic bottles are a very common form of litter around the world, requiring volunteers or government agencies to collect such bottles and bring them to a facility for recycling or other forms of disposal. As plastic bottles decay, they take up precious landfill space, and some leach harmful chemicals into the ground, potentially polluting the soil and water.




 plastic codes
ekuazion recommend avoiding the use of these two types of plastics: PVC and PS (polystyrene)


Because landfills are so tightly packed, some scientists are concerned that the rate of decay in landfills could be even slower than previously surmised, as the conditions are not optimal for breakdown. Landfills in general pose a serious problem in many parts of the world, as they contain a broad mixture of items which could potentially be recycled, including precious metals, along with potentially dangerous and toxic products. Plastic bottles take up an alarming amount of landfill space, especially when one considers that they shouldn't be in landfills at all.



Not all discarded plastic bottles make their way into landfills, either. The world's oceans host a steadily growing collection of plastics, most notably in the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. These plastics come from litter, poorly secured landfills, spilled shipping containers, and a variety of other sources, and they take centuries to break down, even assisted by corrosive saltwater and UV radiation. The proliferation of plastics in the world's oceans poses a serious threat to many marine organisms, and some scientists are concerned that, rather than breaking down entirely, plastics actually break down into very small segments which could potentially be consumed by microscopic organisms.
This could have serious environmental repercussions, as such organisms are not equipped to digest plastics. Therefore they could die in mass numbers, or be consumed by animals higher up the food chain. This could potentially cause such predator organisms to accumulate a variety of the hazardous substances used in plastic production, leading to a breakdown in the health of the world's oceans as well as impacting the health of animals (including humans) which use these organisms as a source of food.
In the case of plastic bottles manufactured from bioplastics, the life cycle of a plastic bottle is quite a bit different. Many such bottles are designed to be disposable, and they will quickly compost under the right conditions, typically those found in a municipal composting facility, rather than a home compost heap. When composted, bioplastics simply return to the Earth; when such plastics end up in landfills, they will also break down, although the decay process may take longer, due to the lack of aeration in landfills.


The stages in the life cycle of a plastic bottle are largely determined by the type of plastic it is made from and the people who interact with the bottle over its lifetime. Because consumers have a powerful role in the end fate of the plastics they use, many environmental organizations have focused heavily consumers, asking them to reduce their use of plastics, reuse them when possible, and ultimately recycle them, in the hopes of reducing the environmental impact of plastics.







The next time you see something in a plastic bottle at the store, you can think about the fact that it contains substances which are billions of years old, and that it may have traveled across great distances to reach the shelf. 


 

25 ago 2011

Aire limpio y plantas: listado de las 11 más efectivas



Sustancias tóxicas en nuestros hogares 

Las plantas de interior ayudan a limpiar el aire de la casa al reducir la concentración interior de tóxicos presentes en las viviendas. Según un estudio realizado por Greenpeace en una muestra representativa de hogares, ¡en el polvo de las casas europeas se hallan de 70 a 100 sustancias químicas tóxicas distintas! Mientras tanto la tecnología no cesa de desarrollar productos químicos tóxicos para los seres vivos (incluidos nosotros), y el ámbito doméstico no es una excepción. Desde materiales de construcción (que paradójicamente destruyen el medioambiente), pasando por los disolventes usados en la mayoría de pinturas y barnices convencionales, hasta los productos de limpieza (nombre desafortunado si consideramos que ensucian el entorno), sin olvidar alfombras y tapicerías sintéticas. Si a este cóctel químico añadimos el hermetismo de muchas viviendas y la falta de hábito de ventilación natural, no es de extrañar que la contaminación del aire interior haya generado el fenómeno conocido como “síndrome del edificio enfermo”, conjunto de síntomas que pueden aparecer al pasar mucho tiempo en edificios con dichas condiciones. Pues bien, todas las plantas de interior ayudan a purificar el aire de una vivienda, pero además algunas son capaces de absorber los gases emitidos por pinturas frescas u ordenadores, por ejemplo.



Plantas que absorben formaldehído, xileno, y otros tóxicos del aire doméstico

El formaldehído (el tóxico más abundante en el aire de los espacios interiores y cuya exposición prolongada a baja concentración puede producir cáncer), el benceno, el xileno, el tricloroetileno, entre muchos otros compuestos orgánicos volátiles tóxicos, son absorbidos por las hojas de algunas plantas, en mayor cantidad cuanto mayor es la superficie de intercambio del follaje.

El formaldehído está presente en diversas resinas y se usa para tratar muchos productos de consumo, incluso bolsas de basura, toallas de papel, pañuelos de papel, telas, ropa antiarrugas, base de las alfombras, revestimientos para suelos, adhesivos, etc. Se utiliza en materiales para la construcción como el contrachapado, el aglomerado y los paneles. Las cocinas de gas también liberan formaldehído. Se sabe que absorben cantidades importantes del formaldehído presente en el aire especies como drácena o tronco de Brasil (Dracaena sp.), ficus (Ficus robusta),  hiedra (Hedera helix), espatifilo (Spathiphyllum sp.), palmera (Chamaedorea elegans), difembaquia, aglaonema (Aglaonema sp.), cinta (Chlorophytum comosum), filodendro (Philodendron sp), potos (Epipremnum aureum), entre otras. Las destacadas en eliminar xileno y tolueno son, por ejemplo, la palmera areca, la drácena, la diefembaquia y el espatifilo. La cinta, el ficus y el rododendro eliminan el dióxido de carbono del humo del tabaco y el formaldehído que desprende la cola de maderas algomeradas y empapelados.



Comida para los microorganismos

Además, se ha demostrado que las sustancias orgánicas volátiles no dañan a las plantas, ¡sino que alimentan a los microorganismos que viven alrededor de sus raíces!, pues están adaptados para metabolizar estos compuestos. Por sus hojas (a través de los poros microscópicos –estomas- usados para su transpiración) captan del aire sustancias perniciosas, las transportan hasta sus raíces, donde residen microorganismos (como Pseudomonas sp.) que no sólo las descomponen de tal forma que su toxicidad desaparece, sino que las hacen disponibles para que puedan ser utilizadas como fuente de alimento para los microorganismos y la propia planta. En definitiva, las plantas representan un eslabón importantísimo entre el aire y el suelo realizando una extraordinaria labor descontaminadora del aire.

Los 11 mejores filtros verdes de aire*




FICUS (Ficus robusta)
Origen: India y Malaya.
Cuidados: Muy pocos, no tolera el exceso de agua. Es una de las plantas de interior más habituales porque tolera condiciones de luz tenue y temperaturas frías, además de presentar una gran resistencia ante las plagas. Sobrevive con menos luz que la mayoría de plantas de su tamaño.
Ambiente: Una temperatura entre 16 y 27ºC y en penumbra son sus condiciones óptimas.
Sustancias que elimina: especialmente eficaz en la eliminación de formaldehído (a un ritmo de 12 μg/h).
Indicadas en: habitaciones recién amuebladas y en todos los lugares cerrados en general.
Curiosidad: Con unas condiciones adecuadas, puede llegar a alcanzar una altura de 2,5 m. Muy apreciada por los diseñadores por su valor estético y su facilidad de cultivo.




DRÁCENA o TRONCO DE BRASIL (Dracaena marginata, Dracaena deremensis y Dracaena fragans “massangeana”)
Origen: Islas Canarias, África, Asia y Madagascar.
Cuidados: Pocos. Necesitan humedad y luz indirecta. Muy resistente.
Ambiente: Cálido y húmedo (entre 16 y 24 ºC) y en penumbra.
Sustancias que elimina: formaldehído y xileno. Dracaena deremensis “Janet Craig” es una de las plantas más eficaces en la eliminación del tricloroetileno, mientras que Dracaena deremensis “Warneckei” es especialmente eficaz en la eliminación del benceno. Dracaena marginata es de las plantas más eficaces en lo que respeta a la absorción de xileno y tricloroetileno. Dracaena fragans “massangeana” es excepcionalmente eficaz en la eliminación del formaldehído.
Indicadas en: Habitaciones recién amuebladas o pintadas, porque filtran formaldehído y xileno.
Curiosidad: Dracaena fragans “massangeana” puede crecer hasta 3 m. Para estimularle un nuevo crecimiento o para rejuvenecer una planta vieja, es recomendable podarla hasta unos 20 cm.




HIEDRA (Hedera helix)
Origen: Asia, Europa y África del Norte.
Cuidados: Necesitan mucha luz y riego moderado. Pero no les sientan bien las altas temperaturas.
Ambiente: Entre 10 y 21ºC.
Sustancias que elimina: 12 μg/h de formaldehído, tricloroetileno y benceno. Filtra hasta el 90% del benceno de una habitación cerrada.
Indicadas en: La oficina, junto a equipos plásticos (como los ordenadores, fax, etc.).
Curiosidad: Puede beneficiarse de estar en el exterior durante algún período en primavera o en verano.




ESPATIFILO (Spathiphyllum sp.)
Origen: Colombia y Venezuela.
Cuidados: Necesita bastante humedad.
Ambiente: Entre 13 y 24ºC.
Sustancias que elimina: 8 μg/h de xileno y tolueno, y 10 μg/h de formaldehído. También eficaz en la eliminación de alcoholes, acetona, tricloroetileno y benceno.
Indicadas en: Habitaciones recién amuebladas.
Curiosidad: Es una de las pocas plantas que florecen perfectamente en los interiores.


POTOS (Epipremnum aureum)
Origen: Islas Salomón.
Cuidados: Apenas necesita. Es la planta más fácil de cultivar de todas las de interior. Tolera la amplia variedad de condiciones ambientales del hogar y la oficina.
Ambiente: Húmedo y claro. Temperatura entre 18 y 24ºC.
Sustancias que elimina: Formaldehído.
Indicadas en: Habitaciones recién pintadas o amuebladas.
Curiosidad: Su fácil cultivo y mantenimiento y su resistencia hacen del potos una de las mejores opciones para los que no saben mucho de jardinería. A diferencia de muchas plantas de interior, no pierde la variedad de sus colores cuando está en un lugar oscuro.


FILODENDRO (Philodendron sp.)
Origen: Sudamérica.
Cuidados: Prefiere una temperatura cálida y humedad. Philodendron erubescens es una de las plantas de interior más fáciles de mantener.
Ambiente: Mucha luz. Si no tiene luz, pierde la flor. Temperatura (16-21ºC es el rango óptimo) y humedad elevadas.
Sustancias que elimina: Gran cantidad de formaldehído.
Indicadas en: Habitaciones poco ventiladas o amuebladas recientemente.
Curiosidad: Philodendron erubescens fue introducido como una planta de interior en torno al año 1900 y Philodendron oxycardium (que puede alcanzar una altura de 2 m) hacia 1850, ambas variedades de enredadera muy comunes.


 

DIFEMBAQUIA (Dieffembachia compacta)
Origen: América tropical Central y del Sur.
Cuidados: No requiere excesiva atención. Es resistente, pues tolera temperaturas de hasta 9ºC durante cortos períodos de tiempo.
Ambiente: Media luz y una temperatura de 16 a 27ºC.
Sustancias que elimina: Alrededor de 10 μg/h de xileno y tolueno, y 5 μg/h de formaldehído.
Indicadas en: Oficinas y en cualquier ambiente en general.
Curiosidad: Su nombre común en inglés, literalmente “planta muda”, proviene del adormecimiento temporal de la lengua y de las cuerdas vocales provocado al masticar cualquier parte de la planta, porque su savia contiene oxalato de calcio. ¡La pérdida de voz puede durar varios días!



PALMERAS
Cuidados: Fácil de mantener porque se adapta a lugares con poca luz y  escasa humedad, condiciones propias de la mayoría de edificios.
Indicadas: Junto a muebles nuevos o recién barnizados.
-Camedorea (Chamaedorea elegans)
Origen: México y Guatemala.
Ambiente: Entre 20 y 27ºC. Media luz.
Sustancias que elimina: 14 μg/h de formaldehído y de benceno. También filtra cloroetileno.
Curiosidad: Si se siente feliz en el lugar donde está y con las condiciones de cultivo, puede llegar a producir flores durante todo el año.
-Palmera Areca (Chrysalidocarpus lutescens)
Origen: Madagascar.
Ambiente: 18-24ºC.
Sustancias que elimina: 10 μg/h de formaldehído, y 19 μg/h de xileno y tolueno. La areca es valorada como una de las mejores plantas de interior en lo que respeta a la eliminación de todas las toxinas del aire con que se han hecho pruebas.
Curiosidad: Libera copiosas cantidades de humedad en el aire. En el interior de la casa, una palmera areca de 1,8 m transpira aproximadamente 1 litro de agua cada 24 horas.

 
CINTA (Chlorophytum comosum):
Origen: Sudáfrica.
Cuidados: Muy fáciles de mantener.
Ambiente: Entre 13 y 24ºC.
Sustancias que elimina: 7 μg/h de xileno y 4,5 μg/h de formaldehído. Filtra el 96% de monóxido de carbono.
Indicadas: Tanto en cocinas donde se utiliza gas como en salones y comedores donde hay reuniones de mucha gente.
Curiosidad: En 1984 recibió especial atención a nivel mundial cuando la NASA dio a conocer por primera vez los hallazgos de unas investigaciones que mostraban la capacidad de esta planta de eliminar los contaminantes del aire en los interiores.


AGLAONEMA (Aglaonema sp.)
Origen: Sudeste asiático.
Cuidados: Apenas necesita atenciones. Es capaz de crecer en zonas escasamente iluminadas.
Ambiente: Entre 16 y 22ºC.
Sustancias que elimina: Formaldehído. Su índice de eliminación de toxinas de la atmósfera aumenta con la prolongación de su exposición.
Indicadas en: Habitaciones que den a calles con mucho tráfico.
Curiosidad: Después de la floración, produce unas bayas rojas venenosas.



SANSEVIERIA (Sansevieria trifasciata)
Origen: África occidental tropical e India.
Cuidados: Su facilidad para crecer y su resistencia a los insectos la convierten en la planta idónea para principiantes en el cultivo de plantas de interior. Requiere suelo húmedo, pero debe regarse con moderación.
Ambiente: 18-27ºC, semisol.
Sustancias que elimina: 2 μg/h de formaldehído
Curiosidad: A diferencia de la mayoría de plantas de interior, la sansevieria libera oxígeno y absorbe dióxido de carbono por la noche.


* Muchas  de las plantas de jardinería, como las citadas, tienen susbtancias naturales tóxicas para los seres humanos que pueden ser perjudiciales frente a un descuido con niños. En caso de tener niños en casa es recomendable consultar a su jardinero. Advertimos, sin embargo que los adultos entienden que las plantas ornamentales no son hortalizas y, por tanto, no son comestibles en ninguna de sus partes.


 + info en fundación terra


story of stuff


21 jul 2011

EASY GREEN CLEANERS

The above health issues are reason enough to make green cleaners, but just in case you need more reasons: homemade cleaners smell better, work just as well, cut down on packaging, and save you money. Lastly, this is a very simple green step you can take at home, yet the rewards are huge – cleaner indoor air quality and a healthy, happy family.

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 cleaning, Green Cleaning, homemade green cleaning products, household 
dangers, safe non-toxic cleaners, toxic-chemicals

WHAT SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED:

You need very few supplies to make homemade cleaning products. Most of the items you’ll need, you likely have around the house already…
  1. A few plain old spray bottles. You can purchase some, or clean out your old ones (the ones that had icky cleaners in them) and reuse them.
  2. Box of baking soda.
  3. Table salt.
  4. Bottle of white distilled vinegar.
  5. Good old plain tap H2O.
  6. Olive oil.
  7. Natural soap.
  8. Fresh lemons.
  9. Organic essential oil of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus, lemongrass and rosemary. You don’t need all of them, but having at least a couple on hand is helpful. These are some of the best antiseptic and antibacterial essential oils, plus they smell great. If you’ve never used essential oils before, read Essential Oil Buying Guide and Essential Oil Safety Guide. It’s important that you understand that anyone can have a negative reaction to an essential oil. The posts above explain how to do a skin test – you don’t want to clean with an oil that affects you negatively.
  10. Some eco-friendly sponges or cloths. Or simply buy a pack of washcloths, use old cloth diapers, make cloths out of ripped clothes, and so on. If you’re going to clean green, you may as well ditch the paper towels while you’re at it.
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home cleaning,  Green Cleaning,  homemade green cleaning products,  
household dangers,  safe non-toxic cleaners,  toxic-chemicals

EASY, GREEN CLEANING SUPPLY RECIPES:

Window wash: Many people who are die-hard into green cleaning love vinegar and water as a window wash. Simply mix 3 tablespoons vinegar with 2 cups of water (or for a bigger job – 1/2 cup vinegar to 1 gallon water) and spray right on your windows. Vinegar works great on glass, it’s true, however I can’t stand the smell of vinegar, so I hunted down an alternative years ago. You can also use straight fresh lemon juice or club soda to get your windows and other glass items sparkling clean. Spritz your glass with club soda and scrub with recycled newspaper. If you use straight lemon juice use a lint-free cloth to scrub with.

All-purpose disinfectant: Mix 2 cups water, a few drops of natural soap, and 15 drops each of tea tree and lavender organic essential oil. You can spray this on all kinds of home surfaces – changing tables, cutting boards, toilets, sinks, walls, and more. Just don’t use this on glass, as it will streak. This basic cleaner is so safe and gentle you could literally spray it on your kids, and they’d be fine. I do suggest baths over disinfecting the kiddos though 
Scrubbing toilets: Drizzle your toilet bowl with vinegar, lemon juice, or spray on some of your all-purpose disinfectant. Sprinkle with baking soda. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Scrub with toilet brush. This mix will also clean sinks perfectly.

Fast non-toxic oven cleaning: You don’t want to use conventional oven cleaners – any product that requires open windows and gloves to use, is not ok to use around your kids (or yourself). The best tip is to not wait to clean your oven when it gets dirty. An old stain is harder to clean. To clean oven stains naturally, sprinkle table salt liberally on the hot spill before your oven cools down. Allow the oven to cool. Grab a damp cloth and rub off the spill.

Mold fighter: Mold is extremely harmful to human lungs. The problem is that once you have mold, you have it, and it can be almost impossible, if not totally impossible to get rid of. Prevention is key. To fight mold from ever occurring, mix two cups of water and three drops of pure organic tea tree essential oil. Once a week, spray your walls with this solution (even behind furniture) and wipe dry. This mixture fights stains and the natural antiseptic qualities of tea tree oil fights mold and mildew.

How to Green Clean Your Bathroom Without Toxic Chemicals!


No one likes cleaning the bathroom; hair-clogged drains, moisture-loving mildew, and, ahem, the toilet all make for an unpleasant chore. No doubt your first priority when cleaning the loo is eliminating germs and soap scum, but it’s important to steer clear of harsh chemicals that can linger in the air and water, and irritate your skin, lungs and mucous membranes. Just like in the kitchen, most popular disinfecting household cleansers are chock full of harmful chemicals. The EPA classifies 275 of the antibacterial agents commonly used in cleaners as pesticides, some of which have been linked to serious health problems. In the bathroom, we’re constantly coming in contact with all kinds of surfaces, so these toxins can easily get on your skin, and with the next flush of the toilet, the chemicals will flow into the wastewater system, where they can seep into the ground. With diligence and earth-friendly products, you can keep your bathroom clean — and safe — without harsh chemicals.


The Porcelain Throne – How to green clean your toilet
There’s no need to reach for the bleach to get your toilet sparkling white. Homemade, non-toxic bathroom cleaners can de-stain just as well. For a spotless toilet, mix together half a cup of vinegar and a spoonful of baking soda. Pour the mixture into the toilet bowl and let sit for about 30 minutes before scrubbing. Repeat once a week. For a simpler one-stop solution, we highly recommend Method’s Lil Bowl Blu. The bleach-free formula detoxes your toilet using lactic acid, naturally removing rings and that gross brown calcium build-up.


Shower & Tub – How to green clean your bathtub & shower
Battle soap scum with baking-soda paste!
By mixing baking soda and all-natural dish soap, you can create an amazing scum-busting paste that rivals any store-bought bathroom scrub. The paste works wonders at removing soap scum from shower doors, as well as hard water and rust stains on ceramic tile. Use a sponge or cloth to rub the paste into the surface until stains are gone, then wipe clean with warm water. To tackle stains on the grout, scrub the area with a toothbrush using the same paste. The paste can be somewhat abrasive, so use sparingly on delicate surfaces.
Vinegar is a mold killer
To remove build up and mildew from the corners of your shower, spray the dirty areas with vinegar, and let it dry. Then spray again and wipe clean. The mild acidity of vinegar loosens the particles and kills bacteria. It’s much easier to prevent mold than to clean it, so it’s a good idea to spray down the shower after each use with a mixture of water and vinegar to prevent mold from settling in the first place.
A scummy plastic or vinyl shower curtain can be cleaned in a number of ways. If it’s not too bad, simply spritz it with a vinegar and water solution, then wipe clean. You can also wipe curtain with a damp sponge and baking soda. For tougher build up or mildew, you should take the curtain off the hooks and lay it on a flat surface so you can scrub it clean. You can also toss the shower curtain in the washing machine. Instead of your regular detergent, use 1/2 cup of baking soda and a few tablespoons of vinegar. Make sure to throw a couple towels in as well, to help rub the grime off.



Down the Drain – How to Green Clean Your Drain
One of the most common causes of a clogged bathroom drain is hair, and the thought of pulling out clumps of tangled locks makes most people run for the Drain-O. But common drain cleaners pack a toxic punch. They contain sodium hydroxide and sodium hypochlorite, which can cause permanent damage to skin and eyes on contact, and the vapors can burn lungs. Many also contain dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, a severe eye and skin irritant, and dichlorodifluoromethane (uh, what?), a neurotoxic eye irritant.
So instead of pouring poison down your drain (which can also leak into the environment), you should create your own, non-toxic drain cleaner with baking soda and vinegar. First, remove any visible debris. Then pour about a 3/4 cup of dry baking soda down the train, followed buy a 1/2 cup of vinegar. Immediately plug the drain with a stopper or rag, and let it sit. The reaction from the baking soda and vinegar will break down gunk. After about 30 minutes, pour boiling water down the drain.


Bathroom Vanity – How to green clean your sink
Many of the methods we mentioned for cleaning the bathtub can also work for cleaning the sink, but often it’s less grimy, so you don’t need to use a strong scrub. Instead, you can make a spray cleaner by mixing two cups of baking soda, 1/2 cup all-natural dish soap, 1 cup water, and 1/2 cup vinegar. The mixture will cut soap scum and grime on most surfaces. Polish fixtures with a mix of equal parts vinegar and baking soda, then rinse clean. Toothpaste also works wonders on chrome fixtures.
For a streak-free mirror, you can just use a clean, lint-free cloth and warm water. If you need a little more fighting power to breakdown the toothpaste splatters, mix equal parts water and white vinegar in a spray bottle, and spritz away. This solution can be used on all glass surfaces.


On the Floor
Bathroom mats can get really grimy, really quickly. Never leave a wet mat laying on the floor; after every shower, hang it over the shower rod so it can dry out. To keep a bathroom rug fresh, sprinkle it with baking soda. Let it sit for about 30 minutes — or however long it takes you to clean the rest of the bathroom –  then vacuum up the powder. This will help eliminate odors and allow you to machine wash the mat less frequently.
To clean a tile floor, mix 1/2 cup of baking soda into a warm bucket of water and mop as you normally would. Add a little bit of lemon juice for a fresh scent. If your bathroom floor is small, simply wipe it with the same spray cleaner you used on the sink — no need to mop.

A Note About Water
Using earth friendly cleaning products certainly is a step toward a better bathroom, but your green efforts will be totally negated if you’re wasting water. As the world’s population continues to increase, water scarcity is becoming a pressing issue. Many of us have no idea how much water we use, and it’s a resource we take for granted. From running the faucet while we brush our teeth to relaxing with a long hot shower, we waste a lot of water in the bathroom. By switching to low-flow fixtures, you can save thousands of gallons of water. If the average family of four swapped their normal shower head for a low-flow model, they would save more than 20,000 gallons of H2O each year. Plus, investing in water-saving technology will lower your bills. For a truly green bathroom, you need to put water conservation first.



5 Tips for a Cleaner, Greener Kitchen



Most people think that the bathroom is the dirtiest room in the house — it does have the toilet, after all. But for years now, experts have been telling us that our kitchens actually harbor more germs and bacteria than any other room in our homes, which actually makes a lot of sense. From food preparation to nasty spills, the kitchen is a high traffic area for germs — but don’t freak out and douse your whole kitchen in bleach. Common cleaning products, like chorine bleach, are full of harsh chemicals that can poison your indoor air and irritate skin and mucous membranes – not to mention seep into the ground and local water supply through improperly managed sewage systems. Plus, the toxins hang in the air and can permeate your food and stay on surfaces if you go overboard with harsh cleaning supplies. By practicing a few smart, eco-friendly cleaning habits, your kitchen can be toxin-free and sparkling like new in no time. Plus, to get you in a green cleaning mood, Method is offering a sweepstakes with the chance to win a home organizing consultation and a bucket of their awesome green cleansers.

Ditch the Disinfectant
Sure, disinfectant cleaners and antibacterial soaps are great at taking care of tough spills and caked on food, but do you actually know what’s actually in them? Herbicides, fungicides, and pesticides – not exactly something you want to be wiping all over your kitchen. The EPA classifies 275 of the antibacterial agents commonly used in cleaners as pesticides, some of which have been linked to serious health problems. Put it this way: if these chemicals are toxic enough to kill animals and microbes, do you really want to be spraying these concoctions inside your kitchen? A better choice is to opt for all-natural cleaners that are free of harmful chemicals and volatile organic compounds. Method takes pains to ensure that their cleansers and soaps are safe and sustainable. They do not use parabens, phosphates, ammonia, chlorine bleach, and a slew of other chemicals because of their known adverse side effects. You can also mix up your own line of eco-friendly cleaners with common items found in your kitchen, which brings us to our next tip.

You can clean just about any surface in your house with a few everyday products: baking soda, white vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and water. Baking soda is a miracle worker: mixed with a little bit of water, it does wonders on counter top spills, stains in the refrigerator, and a dirty tile floor. Add a little lemon juice for a citrusy scent. If your sink is clogged, pour 1/4 cup baking soda down the drain, followed by 1/2 cup of white vinegar. Let it sit for 20 minutes, then flush it with hot water. If grease is the culprit, use 1/2 cup salt and 1/2 cup baking soda and rinse with hot water.

For tough spots, like burnt food in the oven, resist the urge to reach for the industrial strength aerosol cleaners. Don’t even think about buying oven cleaner — it’s jam packed with toxic chemicals like lye, ethylene glycol, and methylene chloride that can burn your eyes, skin, and even your organs if you breathe it in. Instead, sprinkle about 1/4 inch of baking soda over the bottom of your oven, making sure that any stains or spills are completely covered. Over the next few hours, spray it with water every so often to keep it moist, then let it sit overnight. In the morning, the grime will easily scrape off with the baking soda.

Vinegar also works great as an all-purpose cleaner. It is mildly acidic so it wipes away grease, mildew, and coffee or wine stains. To clean a food covered microwave, place 1/4 cup vinegar and 1 cup water in a glass dish and microwave the mixture for two to three minutes, then let it stand for about 10 more. The steam and acidity will loosen the food particles, allowing them to be easily wiped off. Lemon juice can be used for nearly all the same purposes as vinegar.

Tackle Dirty Dishes
It’s easy to let dirty dishes pile up, but that’s a surefire way to fill your sink with germs. From used plates and silverware to dirt-filled rags, the sink sees a lot of grimy activity. Plus (if you do eat meat) there is the added concern of salmonella and E-coli from handling raw meat. The best way to eliminate the growth of germs and bacteria is to get in the habit of washing dishes right after you use them. Use a green, biodegradable dish soap like Method’s, and do not let the water run! The average faucet flows at 2 gallons per minute, so you’re wasting a TON of water if you leave it on while scrubbing. Regularly clean the drain (see above for a homemade solution) to flush out food particles. If you are blessed enough to have a dishwasher, rinse your dishes immediately, then place them in the washer. It’s best to run the dishwasher daily to avoid bacteria build up, but you should only run it when it is full or else you’re wasting a lot of water and energy. (For more information on the energy efficiency of hand washing vs. a dishwasher, our friends at Treehugger ran the numbers).

De-Germ Your Sponge
Reusable washcloths and sponges are definitely the greener choice for washing your dishes and wiping your counters, but they are hotbeds for germs and bacteria. In fact, the kitchen sponge is the number one source of germs in most houses. The moist, tiny crevices in a sponge that make it such an effective cleaning device are also perfect little homes for bacteria. Using a damp sponge just spreads germs from one surface to another. To avoid coating your dishes in bacteria, some people suggest soaking your sponge in a bleach and water solution, but that only succeeds in filling it with chemicals. Instead, boil your sponge for three minutes to kill germs between uses. You can also pop it in the microwave for two minutes, or run it through the dishwasher. For washcloths, let them dry completely after each use, as bacteria thrives in a moist environment. Washcloths should also be washed in the laundry machine and replaced at least once a week.


Take Preventative Measures
For a constantly clean kitchen, take care of messes as they happen. If raw egg gets on the counter, disinfect right away. If spaghetti splatters in the microwave, wipe it clean. If crumbs fall on the floor, sweep them up. Cleaning as you cook might add a couple extra minutes to your meal preparation, but it will save you time in the long run. Instead of spending an hour scrubbing dozens of sticky spots from your fridge every other week, it will only take you a minute to wipe up spilled juice. You should also be aware of expiration dates and clearly mark leftovers with the date they went into the fridge. Throw away old, spoiled food at least every two weeks to avoid mold colonies from taking root. Bacteria multiply at an alarming rate. A single cell can become more than 8 million in less than 24 hours, and just a few can make you sick. By cleaning as messes occur, you’re eliminating the chance for bacteria to grow, but, remember, if you’re using toxic cleaning supplies, you’re simply swapping dangerous bacteria for dangerous chemicals. For the cleanest, safest kitchen, always use all-natural cleansers.




19 jul 2011

Silent spring: Rachel Carlson 1962

Figure 2.2 A cloud of DDT being sprayed over a beach in New York in 1945

Photo: UPI/Bettmann, National Geographic
It is more than 40 years since ecological toxins first made the headlines. In 1962, Rachel Carson published Silent Spring, which focused on the effects of the pesticide dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane, or DDT. At the time, its use was considered to be acceptable in Norway as well. Rachel Carlson produced evidence of how DDT became concentrated along food chains and gave rise to serious problems, for example by disrupting reproduction in birds. Until then, DDT had been seen as highly effective in the fight against insect pests. Other substances whose use increased after the Second World War were polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) and mercury compounds. The scientific evidence presented in the 1960s and 1970s led to the establishment of international agreements to prevent releases of such substances. One of the earliest was the 1972 Oslo Convention, which addressed dumping of waste in the North-East Atlantic. A later example is the 2001 Stockholm Convention on Persistent Organic Pollutants, which is a global agreement.
During the 1980s, comprehensive systems were introduced to control industrial emissions, and releases of substances such as PCBs and dioxins have subsequently been dramatically reduced. Certain substances, such as PCBs, have been totally banned. Lead in petrol has been phased out.
Thus, long-term efforts make it possible to protect our health and the environment against ecological toxins. But it has often taken many years to stop the use of such substances.


Excerpts from Silent Spring (1962)1
Rachel Carson
The history of life on earth has been a history of interaction between living things and their surroundings. To a large extent, the physical form and the habits of the earth's vegetation and its animal life have been molded by the environment. Considering the whole span of earthly time, the opposite effect, in which life actually modifies its surroundings, has been relatively slight. Only within the moment of time represented by the present century has one species—man—acquired significant power to alter the nature of his world.
During the past quarter century this power has not only increased to one of disturbing magnitude but it has changed in character. The most alarming of all man's assaults upon the environment is the contamination of air, earth, rivers, and sea with dangerous and even lethal materials. This pollution is for the most part irrecoverable; the chain of evil it initiates not only in the world that must support life but in living tissues is for the most part irreversible. In this now universal contamination of the environment, chemicals are the sinister and little-recognized partners of radiation in changing the very nature of the world—the very nature of its life.
Strontium 90, released through nuclear explosions into the air, comes to the earth in rain or drifts down as fallout, lodges in soil, enters into the grass or corn or wheat grown there, and in time takes up its abode in the bones of a human being, there to remain until his death. Similarly,chemicals sprayed on croplands or forests or gardens lie long in the soil, entering into living organisms, passing from one to another in a chain of poisoning and death. Or they pass mysteriously by underground streams until they emerge and, through the alchemy of air and sunlight, combine into new forms that kill vegetation, sicken cattle, and work unknown harm on those who drink from once pure wells. As Albert Schweitzer has said, "Man can hardly evenrecognize the devils of his own creation."
It took hundreds of millions of years to produce the life that now inhabits the earth—eons of time in which that developing and evolving and diversifying life reached a state of adjustment and balance with its surroundings. The environment, rigorously shaping and directing the life it supported, contained elements that were hostile as well as supporting. Certain rocks gave out dangerous radiation, even within the light of the sun, from which all life draws its energy, there were short-wave radiations with power to injure. Given time—time not in years but in millennia— life adjusts, and a balance has been reached. For time is the essential ingredient; but in the modern world there is no time.
The rapidity of change and the speed with which new situations are created follow the impetuous and heedless pace of man rather than the deliberate pace of nature. Radiation is no longer merely the background radiation of rocks, the bombardment of cosmic rays, the ultraviolet of the sun that have existed before there was any life on earth; radiation is now the unnatural creation of man's tampering with the atom. The chemicals to which life is asked to make its adjustment are no longer merely the calcium and silica and copper and all the rest of the minerals washed out of the rocks and carried in rivers to the sea; they are the synthetic creations of man's inventive mind, brewed in his laboratories, and having no counterparts in nature.
 
1 Rachel Carson, "Silent Spring," in Diane Ravitch, ed., The American Reader: Words that Moved a Nation (New
York: HarperCollins, 1990), 323-325.
2 To adjust to these chemicals would require time on the scale that is nature's; it would require not merely the years of a man's life but the life of generations. And even this, were it by some miracle possible, would be futile, for the new chemicals come from our laboratories in an endless stream; almost five hundred annually find their way into actual use in the United States alone. The figure is staggering and its implications are not easily grasped—500 new chemicals to which the bodies of men and animals are required somehow to adapt each year, chemicals totally outside the limits of biologic experience.
Among them are many that are used in man's war against nature. Since the mid-1940's over 200 basic chemicals have been created for use in killing insects, weeds, rodents, and other organisms described in the modern vernacular as "pests"; and they are sold under several thousand different brand names.
These sprays, dusts, and aerosols are now applied almost universally to farms, gardens,forests, and homes—nonselective chemicals that have the power to kill every insect, the "good" and the "bad," to still the song of birds and the leaping of fish in the streams, to coat the leaves with a deadly film, and to linger on in the soil—all this though the intended target may be only a few weeds or insects. Can anyone believe it is possible to lay down such a barrage of poisons on the surface of the earth without making it unfit for all life? They should not be called "insecticides," but "biocides." The whole process of spraying seems caught up in an endless spiral. Since DDT was released for civilian use, a process of escalation has been going on in which ever more toxic materials must be found. This has happened because insects, in a triumphant vindication of Darwin's principle of the survival of the fittest, have evolved super races immune to the particular insecticide used, hence a deadlier one has always to be developed—and then a deadlier one than that....
The "control of nature" is a phrase conceived in arrogance, born of the Neanderthal age of biology and philosophy, when it was supposed that nature exists for the convenience of man. Theconcepts and practices of applied entomology for the most part date from that Stone Age of science. It is our alarming misfortune that so primitive a science has armed itself with the most modern and terrible weapons, and that in turning them against the insects it has also turned them
against the earth.